Which is better, niacinamide or alpha arbutin?
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The color of human skin is affected by the pigment system, mainly determined by melanin. Melanin is produced by melanocytes, which are located in the basal layer of the epidermis and transfer melanin to keratinocytes through dendrites. Melanin is excreted from the body as keratinocytes fall off, affecting the color of the skin.
Whitening products mainly achieve whitening effects by inhibiting the production and transfer of melanin and accelerating the excretion of melanin. Next, let's take a look at the common whitening ingredients in skin care products.
Niacinamide: Whitening Star Ingredient
Niacinamide is one of the well-known ingredients in whitening products, also known as vitamin B3. It mainly achieves whitening effects through the following mechanisms: 1) Inhibit the production of melanin particles; 2) Prevent the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes; 3) Accelerate the transfer of melanin in the stratum corneum and promote the shedding of the stratum corneum.
Clinical studies have shown that skin care products containing niacinamide can effectively reduce the number and area of skin spots. Long-term use of products containing niacinamide can lighten the skin tone and achieve the effects of freckle removal and whitening.
Niacinamide Is Not Suitable For Everyone
Pregnant women should not use niacinamide, as excessive use may cause fetal malformation. Similarly, breastfeeding women should avoid using it. In addition, people with sensitive skin should use niacinamide with caution, because the impurity niacin it may contain can cause skin redness, heat pain and allergic reactions. For safety reasons, it is recommended to perform an allergy test on the inside of the arm or behind the ear when using it for the first time.
Arbutin: Melanin Blocker
Arbutin is a common ingredient in whitening cosmetics. It was originally extracted from bearberry leaves, hence the name. Arbutin can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, thereby blocking the production of melanin. In addition, arbutin can also bind to tyrosinase, accelerate the decomposition and metabolism of melanin, reduce skin pigmentation, and remove spots and freckles. At present, arbutin is one of the main ingredients in whitening cosmetics.
The whitening ingredients currently available on the market have similar effects, so just choose the one that suits you. You cannot simply pursue high-concentration whitening products for the sake of whitening, especially for first-time users. The safe approach is to start with a low concentration and not use too much every day.
Scientifically Choose Products Containing Arbutin
1. Look at the content
In fact, the higher the content of arbutin, the better, because arbutin is photosensitive, and too high a concentration poses a certain safety risk. When the content of arbutin is too high, it will cause adverse reactions such as skin erythema, stinging, and contact eczema. Therefore, as a whitening ingredient in cosmetics, the content of arbutin is safer within 2%.
2. Look at the ingredients
Arbutin can be divided into three categories according to different structures: deoxyarbutin, α-arbutin and β-arbutin. Deoxyarbutin has the strongest anti-melanin effect, but it is easy to release hydroquinone during use, which may cause allergies or cancer risks. Many countries have listed deoxyarbutin or its toxic metabolite hydroquinone as prohibited ingredients, so products containing deoxyarbutin cannot be used.
In addition, in terms of activity, α-arbutin is 10-15 times that of β-arbutin. In terms of safety, α-arbutin is more stable and difficult to discolor and degrade, so buying products containing α-arbutin will be more effective, which means it is more friendly to the human body.
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